How Does Our Fence Work

  • Create Your Custom Fence

1. Plan it — any size and shape as long as it's over a half-acre.

2. Make it — Lay wiring wherever you want to protect your pet.

3. Roam Free — Show your pet all the new zones they can roam in.

How Does The Dog Learn The SafestPawz Border?

1. Above Ground Or In-Ground

Want your pet to stop entering the pool, bushes or street? Here's your solution.

2. Lay Wire & Set Zone

Unlimited Zone options. 3X Thick wire means no breaks or cuts, ever.

Your Dog Is Secure!

Free to roam! Your Pupper is helped to remain safe in the boundary you set.

How Does The Dog Learn The SafestPawz Border?

1. Above Ground Or In-Ground

Want your pet to stop entering the pool, bushes or street? Here's your solution.

2. Lay Wire & Set Zone

Unlimited Zone options. 3X Thick wire means no breaks or cuts, ever.

3. Your Dog Is Secure!

Free to roam! Your Pupper is helped to remain safe in the boundary you set.

Manage it all with the transmitter
  • Manage it all with the transmitter

From 1ft to Over 1,000+ Acres of Zone Coverage

Make unlimited fences - like for the pool, garden, and one to keep your dog closer to home not the street.

Above Ground Or InGround

Whichever you prefer, it will work.

Safe And Secure In 3 Simple Steps

Just lay the wire, turn on and show your pet the zone you want them to respect. They will learn to avoid the area.

  • HOW IT WORKS
  • INSTALLATION
  • CUSTOM LAYOUTS
  • TRAINING INFO

- The system works by producing a radio signal from the Fence Transmitter through the Boundary Wire. Bury the Boundary Wire to enclose the dog's Boundary Area. 


- Temporarily define the Boundary Area with Boundary Flags for a visual aid in training your dog. Your dog wears a Collar Receiver with Contact Points that touch his neck and, once trained, can roam freely in the Boundary Area. 


-When your dog reaches the Warning Zone, the Collar Receiver gives a warning beep and vibration. If your dog continues into the Stimulation Zone, a safe static stimulation will be delivered through the Contact Points to get his attention until he returns to the Boundary Area.

Mounting The Transmitter in A Protected Area

The transmitter is the brains of your electric dog fence and is how you will control the system. It transmits a signal that is carried by your boundary wire, forming a line that your dog cannot breach. You may control the both the width of the barrier or how close your dog comes to the wire before the warning and correction begin directly from the transmitter. If there is a break in the wire or if the fence is not working for some reason, the transmitter will sound an alarm.

Installing SafestPawz is an easy weekend project.

  • Plan your layout
  • Lay out wire and test before burying
  • Bury wire a few inches in the ground
  • Place flags at edge of warning zone
  • Find the correct level of static stimulation for your dog
  • Train your dog in short sessions during the following days

Skills and tools required: Installation involves simple handiwork with basic yard tools. You’ll be burying wire at a very shallow depth, possibly splicing wire, and patching the surface along the perimeter.


Important Tips:

  • The Boundary Wire MUST start at the Fence Transmitter and make a continuous loop back.
  • Always use gradual turns at the corners to produce a more consistent boundary. Do not use sharp turns, as this will cause gaps in your boundary.
  • We recommend setting a Boundary Width for the Warning and Stimulation Zones to approximately 16 - 24 feet (8 - 12 feet on each side of the wire).
  • The Collar Receiver can be activated inside the house if the Boundary Wire runs along the outside wall of the house. If this occurs you can remove your dog’s Collar Receiver before bringing him inside, decrease the range using the Range Adjuster, or consider an alternative layout.

Where to Place the Transmitter

- Near a Power Outlet: The control box must be located near an electrical outlet so that it may be easily plugged in.

- Near or directly on an Exterior Wall: In order for the boundary wire to be easily ran outside.

- Needs To Be Protected from The Outdoors: The transmitter must be protected from the outdoors. It cannot, in particular, attract any moisture.

When Placing the Transmitter Indoors

The transmitter should be maintained in an out-of-the-way place, such as the garage, an outdoor shed, or within an exterior wall cabinet. After you've installed the transmitter, you won't need to have access to it on a regular basis.


When Mounting the Transmitter to A Wall

The transmitter should be fastened to the wall with the provided mounting screws. If you're mounting the transmitter to brick or drywall, you'll need to use anchors to keep it in place. Because the transmitter is quite light, you don't have to mount it directly to a stud.


Using A Weatherproof Box

The transmitter can also be placed outside in a waterproof box.  These can be found in the electrical section of your local hardware store. Just make sure it is large enough to hold the transmitter (and surge protector if you have one.) If you choose to place the transmitter outside, for example, beneath a deck, a weatherproof box will provide additional protection.


Bringing the Wire Outside

If your transmitter is placed indoors, the wiring must be run outside. If there is already an opening there, simply use it to run the wire outside. As well you can run the wire through a window or under a garage door. Running the wire through a dryer duct should be avoided. This is due to the fact that dryer vents can become extremely hot, causing the insulation on the wire to melt. In most scenarios, the simplest way to get the wire outside is to drill a hole through the drywall, pull the wire through, and then cover the hole with outside silicone caulking.


Common in-ground fence layouts

1. Full yard

2. Partial yard  

3. Off-limits areas

4. With existing fence

Connecting And Testing

This is the final step. Connect the wires to your surge protector if you have one, and to your transmitter. To turn on the transmitter, plug it in.

Don't worry if you hear a persistent beeping from the transmitter. Most of the time, if the transmitter is alarming, it is because the location where you spliced your wire is not secure enough. Examine all of the places where you've connected your wires. If the transmitter continues to beep after you've repaired your splices, it's time to look for the source of the problem.Follow the steps in our section on locating a breach in the dog fence wire.

It's now time to program your transmitter. In addition to the collar correction level, you must also configure the boundary zone on your transmitter to specify how close to your dog fence wire you want your dog to receive the beep and correction. After you've done that, it's time to place your flags.

How Does Your Pet Learn?Rather than placing your flags on top of the wire, you should place them where the beep and correction are occurring. These flags help your dog learn where a correction will be administered when crossing the location of the flags.

Simply take your collar/receiver outside (but keep your hands off the probes) and walk toward your dog fence wire to see where the beep is coming from. Hold the collar/receiver at about the height of your dog's head. Bring your ear closer to your boundary wire until you hear it beep. Set your boundary flags in the area where the beep is occurring, using your collar as a reference. Place one flag every 10 feet or so. If you can't plant the flags (for example, on the driveway), simply lay them down on the ground.

Congratulations on a job well done! Take a break. Then, when you're ready, let's get started on the most crucial part: training your dogs to recognize the system.

Training is the Key to Success!

The most important aspect of setting up an electric dog fence is training your dog to use it. It should take your dog about two weeks to become used to being contained. The system will be ineffective without training. It's easy to train your dog. All you have to do is dedicate yourself to three 15-minute sessions per day for two weeks.


A quick summary of the training is provided here. The most crucial thing to teach the dog is that when they hear the beep, they should turn around rather than run through the fence. For a more detailed description of each training step, see the instructions below.

Step 1: Getting Your Dog Used to the Fence

Training is Easy

To begin, you must teach your dog that the warning beep and the boundary flags signal the need to turn back and retreat It is critical to establish this foundation because your dog will know what they're supposed to do when the correction is administered in the next step, and they'll learn how to avoid it.

Fitting Your Dog’s Collar/Receiver

The collar/receiver should be worn high on your dog's neck, ideally just below the ears. The receiver should be placed beneath the dog's head, near the front of their neck. The collar should be a little tighter than you think. Only one finger should be able to fit between the probes and your dog's neck.If you can freely rotate the collar around the dog's neck, it's too loose, and the correction won't be felt.

Your dog's collar/receiver should not be left on for longer than 10 hours every day. Pressure necrosis, which is characterized by red sore areas on the dog's neck, can be caused by wearing a collar for too long. Remove the collar immediately if you start to notice red patches on your dog's neck and don't have your dog wear the collar/receiver again until they are fully healed.

Playtime

Playtime should be the first part of each session. Playing with your dog is a great way to start the day. Your dog will be more interested in training and ready to learn. Also, food is a great motivator for dogs. Small treats can help tremendously with your dog’s training.

Step One In Your Dog’s Training

Step one involves walking your dog on a long leash tied to their regular collar. Because you don't want to apply any strain on your dog's contact points, don't tie a leash to the collar/receiver.

Allow your dog to explore and approach the flags you have laid across your property on their own, but do not encourage them to do so. They will hear the beep on the collar when they do. Then, say "no" and take the dog back into the safety zone, away from the flags. In this first session, make sure to instill a sense of urgency. Reward the dog with praise and a treat when they return to the safe zone. For the first two days, repeat this practice at least three times a day in different locations of the yard throughout each training session.

Each session should begin and end with a victory lap! If you sprint, your dog will sprint as well. Simply do a brief loop around the training zone away from the flags. A victory lap is performed to ensure that your dog is safe in the yard.

Step 2: Adding A Correction To The Training Sessions

Step 2: Adding A Correction To The Training Sessions

Our training has now been changed to include the correction. This demonstrates to the dog that ignoring the sound will result in a static shock. The steps in the first lesson are reinforced, in which your dog must turn back and retreat anytime the warning beep is heard.

The addition of the adjustment will assist in the reinforcement of the boundary rules presented in Step One. Because your dog has already been trained to turn back and retreat when the beep is heard, adding the correction will strengthen this association.

When the first correction is made, you can change the strength of the correction so that it is strong enough to get the dog's attention but not so strong that it is overpowering. It is critical that you, as the owner, remain happy and relaxed so that your dog does not become nervous during the sessions.

Setting the Correction Level

You should start with the correction level on the lowest setting for small or sensitive dogs. A medium setting is appropriate for medium-sized dogs, while a high setting is appropriate for larger dogs.  Because each dog is unique, the level of discipline required for each dog varies. Until your dog receives their first correction, and you observe their reaction, you're just making an educated guess. If you're unsure, go with a high correction level for strong-willed dogs and a low correction level for mild-mannered dogs.

Because owners are afraid of harming their dog, some individuals prefer to set the correction level very low. This, however, is not the proper approach to be taken.  If the correction is set too low, the dog may believe it isn't a serious problem and wander past safe zone.

Others try to "frighten their dog" with the correction by changing the correction level too high. This isn't beneficial for your dog since the dog may become overwhelmed and refuse to learn. Instead, set a level of correction that is just strong enough to grab your dog's attention and direct it back to the safe zone.

 

Additional Information About Fitting The Collar To Your Dog’s Neck

Your dog will not feel anything if the contact points do not make proper contact with the dog's neck. A collar that is not properly fitted is the most common cause of a dog ignoring the corrections being made. Longer haired dogs may require longer contact points. If your dog's hair is longer, you may need to use scissors to thin off the hair around the contact points. After that, use Vaseline to mat down this area.

Don’t Forget About Your Dog’s Playtime

Before and after each training session, remember to play with your dog in the safe zone. Playing for a few minutes before and after each training session keeps the dog interested in participating in the training.

Dog Training With Proper Correction

You'll take your dog out on a long leash, just like in Step One. As previously mentioned, you will not lure your dog across the boundary; instead, you will let them to wander over on their own. You may see that they flinch after crossing the line and receiving the correction. This is when you should pull your dog back into the safe zone while firmly shouting "no." When they enter the safe zone, make sure to praise them and give them a treat.

When your dog receives the correction, make sure not to baby them. It's nothing more than a static sensation. It's unexpected, but not painful. Always remember that you are the dog's leader. If you panic, they will as well, and they will never learn. Act as though it wasn't a big deal, and it won't bother them.

What if your dog doesn't cross over the set boundary? If this is the case, make sure you give them a treat. Keep an eye on their body language. You may see your dog approaching the boundary, but it will stop short of the flags. It's also possible that your dog will turn their back on the flags. A treat, some praise, or a quick game of fetch are all appropriate for good behavior.

Repeat this activity three times a day for another week. Make sure your dog does not receive more than one shock per session. Anymore, and your dog may find training to be a dreadful experience.

When your dog consistently shows that they will not cross the fence, it is ready to move on to the next step. In step 3, we evaluate your dog's compliance by presenting them with a temptation to cross the fence to determine whether or not they will refuse to do so.


Step 3: Testing Compliance

Now it's time to put your dog to the test with temptations on the opposite side of the wire. This is done to ensure that even when your dog is excited, the boundary rules are followed. Even if there is an urge for your dog to run to the other side of the boundary, your dog will learn that the rules must be obeyed.

 

Your dog should be tested in the last few days of training to see how well they have learned their boundary restrictions. This is necessary to ensure that the dog remains contained even when they are tempted to cross the boundary. By conducting these tests in a controlled environment, you can ensure that your dog will stay in the yard even when we start letting them off the leash.

Prior To Beginning The Session

Consider what your dog's greatest temptations will be once they are no longer restrained by a leash. You should put your dog to the test with these temptations. Squirrels, people, other dogs, and food are all potential sources of temptation.  It may be easier to deal with these problems now rather than later.

Training

Compliance training is similar to the correction training completed in Step Two. The only difference is that we've added a temptation on the other side of the fence this time. Start by taking your dog for a walk on a long leash. Allow your dog to view something tempting on the other side of the fence.

If your dog comes to a complete stop at the boundary, give them a treat and plenty of praise for obeying the rules. You should be pleased with your dog.

If your dog crosses the boundary, they will receive a correction. After the correction is made, you should in a firm voice say "no" and pull your dog back toward the safe zone. Praise your dog briefly when they retreat.

The next time around, you can start lowering the leash until it is dragging on the ground. Your dog will assume it's off the leash because the leash is dragging on the ground. If the need be, you can still grab the leash to control your dog.

You can start introducing Supervised Off-Leash time in Step Four once your dog is consistently resisting all temptations.

Temptation: Toys

Is there anything your dog enjoys playing with? If so, they can be used to evoke excitement from your dog in order to assess obedience with the set boundary. For instance, if your dog enjoys fetching a tennis ball, you may start the exercise in the safety zone by doing so. When you're playing with your dog, try to get them more and more excited. Then, to see how your dog reacts, toss the ball slightly past the border.

A well-trained dog will recognize the flags quickly and will not pursue the ball. Your dog's eyes may shift away from the ball and toward the flags. Your dog may display signs of being enticed, but shouldn't cross the area where the flags have been placed.

 

 

Temptation With Family Members

The majority of dogs have a deep bond with their family members. When a person in the family leaves, your dog may have some separation anxiety. This would instill a strong desire to follow or chase after family members who cross the boundary. It is a good idea to put this to the test by having a member of your family walk past your dog and over the boundary.It is critical that the person you choose does not shout out to your dog or pay any attention to your dog while doing so. What you can do is have a family member play with your dog for a few minutes before they cross over the boundary to increase your dog’s temptation to follow them.

Playing With Other Dogs

Most dogs appreciate any opportunity they may have to interact and play woth other dogs. You can see if this is true by having a friend walk another dog near the boundary. You'll be able to see if your dog tries to cross the line now. To take it a step further, invite your neighbor's dog over ahead of time to play inside the containment area for a few minutes before crossing the boundary line.

Delivery Driver

Is it normal for your dog to follow the delivery truck around? What you can do is follow these steps. During the training period, try to find a way to replicate that temptation. When the delivery driver arrives, try to go out and train. Another option is to have a friend come up to the house with you. They can then walk up to the door and leave, mirroring the experience. Then you can put your dog to the test to determine if they are enticed to cross the boundary.

If your dog runs over the boundary while testing with any of the abovementioned distractions, go back to Step 2 and work with your dog a little more.


Step 4: Allowing Your Dog To Roam Off-Leash

Step four involves gradually increasing the amount of off-leash time your dog gets until they are able to go longer amounts of time without being supervised. You can now let your dog off the leash for brief periods of time. You'll gradually increase the amount of time you leave your dog unattended in the yard until they can remain unsupervised in your yard all day long.

It's essential to keep a watchful eye on your dog over the first few days to ensure they don't cross the boundary. However, quickly transitioning from supervised off-leash time to unsupervised off-leash time should not be a problem.

Training

Allow your dog to run around in the yard without a leash. At first, the sessions should be supervised and quick. If you notice that your dog is respecting the boundaries, you can lengthen their sessions. Begin by going inside for brief amounts of time and leaving your dog alone for a few minutes. To see what occurs, keep an eye on them through your window.

You'll need to go back to Step Two if you encounter any breakouts. If the breakouts are caused by a specific trigger, proceed to Step 3 to test your dog again.

After your dog stays within the boundary regardless of what happens you have successfully completed the training sessions!

After The Training Sessions: The Process Of Removing The Flags

After your dogs have had a chance to adjust to the system for a few months, you can begin to remove the training flags. Every other flag can be removed in the first week, and every other flag can be removed the following week. You should be able to remove all of the flags by the third week.

Walking With Your Dog

You should stay clear of the boundary lines while your dog is being trained. If you need to take them for a walk during this period, you can put them in your car and drive them over the boundary line, or you can carry them over the boundary line if your dog is little (with the collar off of course.)

After a few months, you can assist them in walking through the boundary by performing the following activity.

Remove your dog's containment collar first. After that, attach a leash to your dog. Choose a precise location in your boundary where you will both enter and exit. This is referred to as your "invisible gate." The idea is that you're letting your dog know that, at this point in the fence, it's okay for them to enter and exit the yard while you're with them.


  • HOW IT WORKS
  • INSTALLATION
  • CUSTOM LAYOUTS
  • TRAINING INFO

- The system works by producing a radio signal from the Fence Transmitter through the Boundary Wire. Bury the Boundary Wire to enclose the dog's Boundary Area. 


- Temporarily define the Boundary Area with Boundary Flags for a visual aid in training your dog. Your dog wears a Collar Receiver with Contact Points that touch his neck and, once trained, can roam freely in the Boundary Area. 


-When your dog reaches the Warning Zone, the Collar Receiver gives a warning beep and vibration. If your dog continues into the Stimulation Zone, a safe static stimulation will be delivered through the Contact Points to get his attention until he returns to the Boundary Area.

Mounting The Transmitter in A Protected Area

The transmitter is the brains of your electric dog fence and is how you will control the system. It transmits a signal that is carried by your boundary wire, forming a line that your dog cannot breach. You may control the both the width of the barrier or how close your dog comes to the wire before the warning and correction begin directly from the transmitter. If there is a break in the wire or if the fence is not working for some reason, the transmitter will sound an alarm.

Installing SafestPawz is an easy weekend project.

  • Plan your layout
  • Lay out wire and test before burying
  • Bury wire a few inches in the ground
  • Place flags at edge of warning zone
  • Find the correct level of static stimulation for your dog
  • Train your dog in short sessions during the following days

Skills and tools required: Installation involves simple handiwork with basic yard tools. You’ll be burying wire at a very shallow depth, possibly splicing wire, and patching the surface along the perimeter.


Important Tips:

  • The Boundary Wire MUST start at the Fence Transmitter and make a continuous loop back.
  • Always use gradual turns at the corners to produce a more consistent boundary. Do not use sharp turns, as this will cause gaps in your boundary.
  • We recommend setting a Boundary Width for the Warning and Stimulation Zones to approximately 16 - 24 feet (8 - 12 feet on each side of the wire).
  • The Collar Receiver can be activated inside the house if the Boundary Wire runs along the outside wall of the house. If this occurs you can remove your dog’s Collar Receiver before bringing him inside, decrease the range using the Range Adjuster, or consider an alternative layout.

Where to Place the Transmitter

- Near a Power Outlet: The control box must be located near an electrical outlet so that it may be easily plugged in.

- Near or directly on an Exterior Wall: In order for the boundary wire to be easily ran outside.

- Needs To Be Protected from The Outdoors: The transmitter must be protected from the outdoors. It cannot, in particular, attract any moisture.

When Placing the Transmitter Indoors

The transmitter should be maintained in an out-of-the-way place, such as the garage, an outdoor shed, or within an exterior wall cabinet. After you've installed the transmitter, you won't need to have access to it on a regular basis.


When Mounting the Transmitter to A Wall

The transmitter should be fastened to the wall with the provided mounting screws. If you're mounting the transmitter to brick or drywall, you'll need to use anchors to keep it in place. Because the transmitter is quite light, you don't have to mount it directly to a stud.


Using A Weatherproof Box

The transmitter can also be placed outside in a waterproof box.  These can be found in the electrical section of your local hardware store. Just make sure it is large enough to hold the transmitter (and surge protector if you have one.) If you choose to place the transmitter outside, for example, beneath a deck, a weatherproof box will provide additional protection.


Bringing the Wire Outside

If your transmitter is placed indoors, the wiring must be run outside. If there is already an opening there, simply use it to run the wire outside. As well you can run the wire through a window or under a garage door. Running the wire through a dryer duct should be avoided. This is due to the fact that dryer vents can become extremely hot, causing the insulation on the wire to melt. In most scenarios, the simplest way to get the wire outside is to drill a hole through the drywall, pull the wire through, and then cover the hole with outside silicone caulking.


Common in-ground fence layouts

1. Full yard

2. Partial yard  

3. Off-limits areas

4. With existing fence

Connecting And Testing


This is the final step. Connect the wires to your surge protector if you have one, and to your transmitter. To turn on the transmitter, plug it in.

Don't worry if you hear a persistent beeping from the transmitter. Most of the time, if the transmitter is alarming, it is because the location where you spliced your wire is not secure enough. Examine all of the places where you've connected your wires. If the transmitter continues to beep after you've repaired your splices, it's time to look for the source of the problem. Follow the steps in our section on locating a breach in the dog fence wire.

It's now time to program your transmitter. In addition to the collar correction level, you must also configure the boundary zone on your transmitter to specify how close to your dog fence wire you want your dog to receive the beep and correction. After you've done that, it's time to place your flags.

How Does Your Pet Learn?

Rather than placing your flags on top of the wire, you should place them where the beep and correction are occurring. These flags help your dog learn where a correction will be administered when crossing the location of the flags.


Simply take your collar/receiver outside (but keep your hands off the probes) and walk toward your dog fence wire to see where the beep is coming from. Hold the collar/receiver at about the height of your dog's head. Bring your ear closer to your boundary wire until you hear it beep. Set your boundary flags in the area where the beep is occurring, using your collar as a reference. Place one flag every 10 feet or so. If you can't plant the flags (for example, on the driveway), simply lay them down on the ground.

Congratulations on a job well done! Take a break. Then, when you're ready, let's get started on the most crucial part: training your dogs to recognize the system.

Training is the Key to Success!

The most important aspect of setting up an electric dog fence is training your dog to use it. It should take your dog about two weeks to become used to being contained. The system will be ineffective without training. It's easy to train your dog. All you have to do is dedicate yourself to three 15-minute sessions per day for two weeks.


A quick summary of the training is provided here. The most crucial thing to teach the dog is that when they hear the beep, they should turn around rather than run through the fence. For a more detailed description of each training step, see the instructions below.

Step 1: Getting Your Dog Used to the Fence

Training is Easy

To begin, you must teach your dog that the warning beep and the boundary flags signal the need to turn back and retreat It is critical to establish this foundation because your dog will know what they're supposed to do when the correction is administered in the next step, and they'll learn how to avoid it.


Fitting Your Dog’s Collar/Receiver

The collar/receiver should be worn high on your dog's neck, ideally just below the ears. The receiver should be placed beneath the dog's head, near the front of their neck. The collar should be a little tighter than you think. Only one finger should be able to fit between the probes and your dog's neck.If you can freely rotate the collar around the dog's neck, it's too loose, and the correction won't be felt.

Your dog's collar/receiver should not be left on for longer than 10 hours every day. Pressure necrosis, which is characterized by red sore areas on the dog's neck, can be caused by wearing a collar for too long. Remove the collar immediately if you start to notice red patches on your dog's neck and don't have your dog wear the collar/receiver again until they are fully healed.


Playtime

Playtime should be the first part of each session. Playing with your dog is a great way to start the day. Your dog will be more interested in training and ready to learn. Also, food is a great motivator for dogs. Small treats can help tremendously with your dog’s training.


Step One In Your Dog’s Training

Step one involves walking your dog on a long leash tied to their regular collar. Because you don't want to apply any strain on your dog's contact points, don't tie a leash to the collar/receiver.

Allow your dog to explore and approach the flags you have laid across your property on their own, but do not encourage them to do so. They will hear the beep on the collar when they do. Then, say "no" and take the dog back into the safety zone, away from the flags. In this first session, make sure to instill a sense of urgency. Reward the dog with praise and a treat when they return to the safe zone. For the first two days, repeat this practice at least three times a day in different locations of the yard throughout each training session.

Each session should begin and end with a victory lap! If you sprint, your dog will sprint as well. Simply do a brief loop around the training zone away from the flags. A victory lap is performed to ensure that your dog is safe in the yard.

Step 2: Adding A Correction To The Training Sessions

Our training has now been changed to include the correction. This demonstrates to the dog that ignoring the sound will result in a static shock. The steps in the first lesson are reinforced, in which your dog must turn back and retreat anytime the warning beep is heard.

The addition of the adjustment will assist in the reinforcement of the boundary rules presented in Step One. Because your dog has already been trained to turn back and retreat when the beep is heard, adding the correction will strengthen this association.

When the first correction is made, you can change the strength of the correction so that it is strong enough to get the dog's attention but not so strong that it is overpowering. It is critical that you, as the owner, remain happy and relaxed so that your dog does not become nervous during the sessions.


Setting the Correction Level

You should start with the correction level on the lowest setting for small or sensitive dogs. A medium setting is appropriate for medium-sized dogs, while a high setting is appropriate for larger dogs.  Because each dog is unique, the level of discipline required for each dog varies. Until your dog receives their first correction, and you observe their reaction, you're just making an educated guess. If you're unsure, go with a high correction level for strong-willed dogs and a low correction level for mild-mannered dogs.

Because owners are afraid of harming their dog, some individuals prefer to set the correction level very low. This, however, is not the proper approach to be taken.  If the correction is set too low, the dog may believe it isn't a serious problem and wander past safe zone.

Others try to "frighten their dog" with the correction by changing the correction level too high. This isn't beneficial for your dog since the dog may become overwhelmed and refuse to learn. Instead, set a level of correction that is just strong enough to grab your dog's attention and direct it back to the safe zone.

 

Additional Information About Fitting The Collar To Your Dog’s Neck

Your dog will not feel anything if the contact points do not make proper contact with the dog's neck. A collar that is not properly fitted is the most common cause of a dog ignoring the corrections being made. Longer haired dogs may require longer contact points. If your dog's hair is longer, you may need to use scissors to thin off the hair around the contact points. After that, use Vaseline to mat down this area.


Don’t Forget About Your Dog’s Playtime

Before and after each training session, remember to play with your dog in the safe zone. Playing for a few minutes before and after each training session keeps the dog interested in participating in the training.


Dog Training With Proper Correction

You'll take your dog out on a long leash, just like in Step One. As previously mentioned, you will not lure your dog across the boundary; instead, you will let them to wander over on their own. You may see that they flinch after crossing the line and receiving the correction. This is when you should pull your dog back into the safe zone while firmly shouting "no." When they enter the safe zone, make sure to praise them and give them a treat.


When your dog receives the correction, make sure not to baby them. It's nothing more than a static sensation. It's unexpected, but not painful. Always remember that you are the dog's leader. If you panic, they will as well, and they will never learn. Act as though it wasn't a big deal, and it won't bother them.


What if your dog doesn't cross over the set boundary? If this is the case, make sure you give them a treat. Keep an eye on their body language. You may see your dog approaching the boundary, but it will stop short of the flags. It's also possible that your dog will turn their back on the flags. A treat, some praise, or a quick game of fetch are all appropriate for good behavior.

Repeat this activity three times a day for another week. Make sure your dog does not receive more than one shock per session. Anymore, and your dog may find training to be a dreadful experience.

When your dog consistently shows that they will not cross the fence, it is ready to move on to the next step. In step 3, we evaluate your dog's compliance by presenting them with a temptation to cross the fence to determine whether or not they will refuse to do so.

Step 3: Testing Compliance

Now it's time to put your dog to the test with temptations on the opposite side of the wire. This is done to ensure that even when your dog is excited, the boundary rules are followed. Even if there is an urge for your dog to run to the other side of the boundary, your dog will learn that the rules must be obeyed.

 

Your dog should be tested in the last few days of training to see how well they have learned their boundary restrictions. This is necessary to ensure that the dog remains contained even when they are tempted to cross the boundary. By conducting these tests in a controlled environment, you can ensure that your dog will stay in the yard even when we start letting them off the leash.


Prior To Beginning The Session

Consider what your dog's greatest temptations will be once they are no longer restrained by a leash. You should put your dog to the test with these temptations. Squirrels, people, other dogs, and food are all potential sources of temptation.  It may be easier to deal with these problems now rather than later.


Training

Compliance training is similar to the correction training completed in Step Two. The only difference is that we've added a temptation on the other side of the fence this time. Start by taking your dog for a walk on a long leash. Allow your dog to view something tempting on the other side of the fence.

If your dog comes to a complete stop at the boundary, give them a treat and plenty of praise for obeying the rules. You should be pleased with your dog.

If your dog crosses the boundary, they will receive a correction. After the correction is made, you should in a firm voice say "no" and pull your dog back toward the safe zone. Praise your dog briefly when they retreat.

The next time around, you can start lowering the leash until it is dragging on the ground. Your dog will assume it's off the leash because the leash is dragging on the ground. If the need be, you can still grab the leash to control your dog.

You can start introducing Supervised Off-Leash time in Step Four once your dog is consistently resisting all temptations.


Temptation: Toys

Is there anything your dog enjoys playing with? If so, they can be used to evoke excitement from your dog in order to assess obedience with the set boundary. For instance, if your dog enjoys fetching a tennis ball, you may start the exercise in the safety zone by doing so. When you're playing with your dog, try to get them more and more excited. Then, to see how your dog reacts, toss the ball slightly past the border.

A well-trained dog will recognize the flags quickly and will not pursue the ball. Your dog's eyes may shift away from the ball and toward the flags. Your dog may display signs of being enticed, but shouldn't cross the area where the flags have been placed.


Temptation With Family Members

The majority of dogs have a deep bond with their family members. When a person in the family leaves, your dog may have some separation anxiety. This would instill a strong desire to follow or chase after family members who cross the boundary. It is a good idea to put this to the test by having a member of your family walk past your dog and over the boundary.It is critical that the person you choose does not shout out to your dog or pay any attention to your dog while doing so. What you can do is have a family member play with your dog for a few minutes before they cross over the boundary to increase your dog’s temptation to follow them.


Playing With Other Dogs

Most dogs appreciate any opportunity they may have to interact and play woth other dogs. You can see if this is true by having a friend walk another dog near the boundary. You'll be able to see if your dog tries to cross the line now. To take it a step further, invite your neighbor's dog over ahead of time to play inside the containment area for a few minutes before crossing the boundary line.


Delivery Driver

Is it normal for your dog to follow the delivery truck around? What you can do is follow these steps. During the training period, try to find a way to replicate that temptation. When the delivery driver arrives, try to go out and train. Another option is to have a friend come up to the house with you. They can then walk up to the door and leave, mirroring the experience. Then you can put your dog to the test to determine if they are enticed to cross the boundary.

If your dog runs over the boundary while testing with any of the abovementioned distractions, go back to Step 2 and work with your dog a little more.

Step 4: Allowing Your Dog To Roam Off-Leash

Step four involves gradually increasing the amount of off-leash time your dog gets until they are able to go longer amounts of time without being supervised. You can now let your dog off the leash for brief periods of time. You'll gradually increase the amount of time you leave your dog unattended in the yard until they can remain unsupervised in your yard all day long.

It's essential to keep a watchful eye on your dog over the first few days to ensure they don't cross the boundary. However, quickly transitioning from supervised off-leash time to unsupervised off-leash time should not be a problem.


Training

Allow your dog to run around in the yard without a leash. At first, the sessions should be supervised and quick. If you notice that your dog is respecting the boundaries, you can lengthen their sessions. Begin by going inside for brief amounts of time and leaving your dog alone for a few minutes. To see what occurs, keep an eye on them through your window.

You'll need to go back to Step Two if you encounter any breakouts. If the breakouts are caused by a specific trigger, proceed to Step 3 to test your dog again.

After your dog stays within the boundary regardless of what happens you have successfully completed the training sessions!


After The Training Sessions: The Process Of Removing The Flags

After your dogs have had a chance to adjust to the system for a few months, you can begin to remove the training flags. Every other flag can be removed in the first week, and every other flag can be removed the following week. You should be able to remove all of the flags by the third week.


Walking With Your Dog

You should stay clear of the boundary lines while your dog is being trained. If you need to take them for a walk during this period, you can put them in your car and drive them over the boundary line, or you can carry them over the boundary line if your dog is little (with the collar off of course.)

After a few months, you can assist them in walking through the boundary by performing the following activity.

Remove your dog's containment collar first. After that, attach a leash to your dog. Choose a precise location in your boundary where you will both enter and exit. This is referred to as your "invisible gate." The idea is that you're letting your dog know that, at this point in the fence, it's okay for them to enter and exit the yard while you're with them.


  • Frequently Asked Questions

Q. My dog is ignoring the correction completely. Should I Increase the correction level?

A. If your dog does not respond to the correction at all during training, the most typical cause is that the collar is not properly fitted. Even when the collar is set to the lowest level, most dogs will react in some way, such as turning their head or scratching at the collar. If there is no reaction, it is possible that the probes on the collar are not making good contact with your dog's skin and your dog simply does not feel the correction.

Make sure your dog's hair is out of the way and that you can only fit one finger between the prongs and your dog's neck. It may be beneficial to thin out the hair if your dog is long-haired in the area where the contact points meet the dog's neck.

If you are confident that the collar is properly fitted to your dog’s neck, wait to see how your dog reacts to the zing before increasing the intensity of correction. If the collar is properly fitted, it is quite rare for the dog to show no reaction at all.

Q. My dog reacts when the stimuli is administered but doesn't appear to be disturbed by it. Is it time to increase the correction level?

A. If your dog's reaction is mild, such as not moving with urgency or pausing to scratch at the collar, it's time to raise the correction level to gain your dog's attention.

Q. My dog is digging up my flowers and other landscaping. Can I get him to stop?

A. Yes! what you can do is create a circle of wire around these specific areas. Then, using twisted wire, attach your smaller circle to your larger circle. The smaller circle becomes yet another place that the dog is not permitted to cross. Our guides walk through EXACTLY how to do this.

Q: How many dogs can this connect too?

A. Our transmitter can connect an 10+ dogs all at once! Isn't that amazing! The connection level and zones will be the exact same for all your dogs. Just sync the collar and let 'em roam.

Q: Is this waterproof?

A. Absolutely YES! With IPX-67 Water coating, this collar can handle the toughest terrain and roughest pets. Rain, Snow or Mud. SafestPawz Is Built To Last.

Q. My dog is ignoring the correction completely. Should I Increase the correction level?

A. If your dog does not respond to the correction at all during training, the most typical cause is that the collar is not properly fitted. Even when the collar is set to the lowest level, most dogs will react in some way, such as turning their head or scratching at the collar. If there is no reaction, it is possible that the probes on the collar are not making good contact with your dog's skin and your dog simply does not feel the correction.

Make sure your dog's hair is out of the way and that you can only fit one finger between the prongs and your dog's neck. It may be beneficial to thin out the hair if your dog is long-haired in the area where the contact points meet the dog's neck.

If you are confident that the collar is properly fitted to your dog’s neck, wait to see how your dog reacts to the zing before increasing the intensity of correction. If the collar is properly fitted, it is quite rare for the dog to show no reaction at all.

Q. My dog reacts when the stimuli is administered but doesn't appear to be disturbed by it. Is it time to increase the correction level?

A. If your dog's reaction is mild, such as not moving with urgency or pausing to scratch at the collar, it's time to raise the correction level to gain your dog's attention.

Q. My dog is digging up my flowers and other landscaping. Can I get him to stop?

A. Yes! what you can do is create a circle of wire around these specific areas. Then, using twisted wire, attach your smaller circle to your larger circle. The smaller circle becomes yet another place that the dog is not permitted to cross. Our guides walk through EXACTLY how to do this.

Q: How many dogs can this connect too?

A. Our transmitter can connect an 10+ dogs all at once! Isn't that amazing! The connection level and zones will be the exact same for all your dogs. Just sync the collar and let 'em roam.

Q: Is this waterproof?

A. Absolutely YES! With IPX-67 Water coating, this collar can handle the toughest terrain and roughest pets. Rain, Snow or Mud. SafestPawz Is Built To Last.

Q. How accurate is SafestPawz?

A. SafestPawz is customizable and SUPER precise. The buffer zone from where you place the wire can actually be decreased to permit "tighter to the edge boundaries" or increased if you want more "cushion from where you laid the wire" just turn the the dial.

If you have any questions, we’re here to help. You can reach us at Support@SpotOnFence.com or Monday - Friday 9 am-5 pm (eastern time) at 1.603.488.1504.

Q. If the dog escapes and then comes back inside the fence on its own, will the dog receive static correction when returning home?

A. No, the collar does not emit static correction on your dog returning to its fence, as other containment systems do. Our system gives your dog a static correction or vibration only when they leave the fence area. We believe dogs should not be afraid to return home!

Q. I have just under half an acre. Can I use this product?

A. Yes! You can zone off from an inch of space all the way to 1,000's+ of Acres! No amount of land will be to much for SafestPawz to handle.

Q: Does this work on my slanted/hilly yard?

A. Yes! The advantage of a Wired Fence is the connectivity and customizability you get. Any terrain works with SafestPawz. Rocky, hilly, forests are no match for SafestPawz. The wired will keep connectivity clear and precise all the time.

Q: Does this warn the dog as they approach the boundary or just if they pass it?

A. The collar makes a series of beeps as it comes close to the boundary. Once your dog passes the boundary the collar will initiate a slight zing to remind them turn back immediately.

Q. How accurate is SafestPawz?

A. SafestPawz is customizable and SUPER precise. The buffer zone from where you place the wire can actually be decreased to permit "tighter to the edge boundaries" or increased if you want more "cushion from where you laid the wire" just turn the the dial.

If you have any questions, we’re here to help. You can reach us at Support@SpotOnFence.com or Monday - Friday 9 am-5 pm (eastern time) at 1.603.488.1504.

Q. If the dog escapes and then comes back inside the fence on its own, will the dog receive static correction when returning home?

A. No, the collar does not emit static correction on your dog returning to its fence, as other containment systems do. Our system gives your dog a static correction or vibration only when they leave the fence area. We believe dogs should not be afraid to return home!

Q. I have just under half an acre. Can I use this product?

A. Yes! You can zone off from an inch of space all the way to 1,000's+ of Acres! No amount of land will be to much for SafestPawz to handle.

Q: Does this work on my slanted/hilly yard?

A. Yes! The advantage of a Wired Fence is the connectivity and customizability you get. Any terrain works with SafestPawz. Rocky, hilly, forests are no match for SafestPawz. The wired will keep connectivity clear and precise all the time.

Q: Does this warn the dog as they approach the boundary or just if they pass it?

A. The collar makes a series of beeps as it comes close to the boundary. Once your dog passes the boundary the collar will initiate a slight zing to remind them turn back immediately.